Oxford cloth is the signature fabric for button-down collared shirts. This fabric uses thick thread so that the weave is uniquely dense and heavy. The durable fabric is naturally resistant to wrinkles so that you don’t need to worry too much about ironing. The oxford cloth button-down (OCBD) has a special place in Ivy League fashion.
The "Traditional" Classic Fit
To create a traditional feel, the curve of the collar pattern has been reduced. The new pattern employs a lowered neckline to create a relaxed look when the collar is opened.
Compared to the slim fit, the sleeves and body have been kept spacious. By preserving the size of the back panel, together with bringing the side seams forward, we have incorporated the essential ideas of traditional British and American tailoring.
The special characteristic of the Manhattan Model is its sleeves that naturally point forward. The curve of the sleeve has been tailored to match that of the jacket, which in turn means the cuff of the shirt sleeve and the jacket are parallel.
To preserve a traditional look, the shirt has a wider front and sleeve plackets, and also features a wider stitch width in comparison to the Slim Fits. The sleeve plackets employ double stitches to keep this taste. Inspired by the Ivy League style, only the yoke has been narrowed.
The pocket has been placed slightly slanted on the shirt so that it will appear straight when worn. As an added Ivy Look detail, the stitch on the pocket is straight. (*Button-down shirts only.)
The Essential Elements
The finest quality materials
It is often said that the best chefs are relentlessly demanding about their ingredients. It is the same with master shirt makers. We pay meticulous attention when selecting the yarns that make up our fine cloths, just as if they were the freshest catch of the day. Most of the yarns selected for our fabrics have a minimum 80 cotton yarn count (2-ply), ensuring the most exquisite feel. We also frequently use 100 and 120 yarn count cotton, and have launched a series of sumptuous fabrics using an unprecedented 300 yarn count cotton.
The superior single needle
Our shirts are finished with single needle stitching, which is regarded as the sign of the finest quality shirts. Although it takes twice the time to sew compared to other common stitches, by rolling the edges inside the seams, the finished product has a smooth touch to the skin.
Buttons and intricate interlining
Shell buttons are the hallmark of luxury shirts. Buttons carved from natural shells each have a unique sheen, adding an understated but unmistakable sense of refinement. The selection of interlining needs to be carefully considered to achieve the ideal structured yet organically flowing form. We only use non-fusible interlining, in order to achieve a natural-looking soft touch to the collars and cuffs.
Precise patterns, beautifully cut
To achieve the best fit and hang, a skillfully prepared pattern is essential. In our search for the ultimate fit, we create an ideal balance between the dynamic of the fabric and the seamster's individual technique, redrawing and adjusting the patterns to perfection. It is through the precision of our patterns that we are able to achieve the subtle profile and flattering silhouette of our shirts. Beautifully cut panels are then elaborately stitched together by seamsters of the highest skill and dexterity.