Cotton broadcloth, also known as poplin, is the first fabric to come up when addressing dress shirt fabrics. Professional and lightweight, we recommend a smooth broadcloth for interviews and day-to-day work. A broadcloth weave entails a smooth, relatively lightweight textile. Our hallmark blue and white cotton broadcloth is made with American Supima cotton, a hallmark of the industry. Note that the lightweight nature of cotton broadcloth will increase transparency, particularly in the color white.
Oxford cloth is the workhorse of the American wardrobe. Popularized in sportswear originally, then further amplified through classic style icons like Paul Newman, the weave of the fabric is particularly strong due to the thickness of the threads used. Considered the least dressy of our standard cottons, oxford cloth has remained a staple of casual shirting. The heavy hand of the fabric makes for a truly opaque white shirt.
Not to be confused with the standard oxford, royal oxford is a distinctively dressy material. The complex weave results in a brilliant sheen and a noticeable crosshatched diamond texture throughout the fabric. This patterned solid white fabric is often worn formally, or when a little less transparency than broadcloth is needed for a standard spread collar dress shirt.
Pinpoint oxford is similar to oxford cloth in how it is a tighter version of the same weave. The weight of the fabric, however, is light and the texture is fine in comparison to the heavy handed traditional oxford. Thanks to the dense construction of the fabric, the pinpoint is less transparent than a standard broadcloth and slightly more durable. We recommend the pinpoint for day-to-day work, and less so for formal occasions.
End-on-end is a closely woven, plain weave that appears solid from a distance. Upon close inspection, end-on-end alternates light and dark threads for a faint heather effect, similar to chambray. Unlike chambray, end-on-end is typically lightweight and especially ideal for the warmer months. A hallmark of shirting, this fabric is known for classic color contrast and sensibility.
Pique is a style of fabric weave under the umbrella of dobby fabrics. While dobby itself ranges, all can be described as a family of diverse weaves, each resulting in a fabric with a great deal of raised texture. The modern polo shirt with raised texture, manufactured universally, is a knit pique. Accordingly, knit pique fabrics are most commonly seen in our line of stretchy knit shirts.
Panama cloth is soft and loose, with a fine, grainy surface. A form of basket weave deriving its name from the similarities it bears to a straw Panama hat, this is an ideal fabric for lightweight wear in summer. The threads cross over each other for a faint hint of texture, lending a hand to a casual air.
Linen is a must-have fabric, and the backbone of a warm weather wardrobe. The distinctive plain tabby weave features a breezy, open slub texture that encourages airflow and movement. This texture is emphasized by the individual strands of plant fiber making up the fabric, and is responsible for giving linen its distinctive natural touch.
Leno, also known as a gauze weave, corresponds to a breathable fabric consisting of yarns meticulously twisted in a diamond-like pattern. Thanks to the weight of these twisted yarns leno fabric has body, but the open weave left by the diamonds makes a definitively lightweight shirt. White colorways can come close to being semi-sheer, but this is only a small con against all of the pros of leno. Few shirts can compare during hot and humid summer days.
The characteristics of twill consist of diagonal lines flowing throughout the fabric. This diagonal weave is most easily known as the same texture on a pair of denim jeans. Unlike denim, shirts made of dressy cotton twill will have body, shine, and smoothness. Many premium fabrics are twill, as the construction allows for very thin threads at a tight weave. While not as sharp or crisp as broadcloth, the thickness and body of twill gives it an unmistakably smooth drape.