The Seven Fold Tie
Calabrese, the backbone of Italian neckties, was established in 1924 by Eugenio Calabrese and born from his deep passion for neckwear. Known for decades as an elite haberdasher, recent projects have grown to encompass bags and small accessories. A brand of functionality from the beginning, uniquely Neapolitan style and dutiful work ethics have filtered into every aspect of their designs, showcasing every year at Milano's PITTI UOMO.
A single length of fabric has been folded seven times to create the shape of the necktie, circumventing modern cut and sew techniques by using double the amount of silk.
This method of manufacturing is distinctively handmade, performed by the only most skilled craftsmen.
The characteristic softness similar to that of a scarf allows for an elegant drape and bodied knot, for the most discerning of tastes.
■Materials have been sourced from esteemed European mills.
■Lining and backing have been selected from matching natural materials.
■To ensure stability, a notch has been handsewn into the backing.
■To avoid twisting, the necktie has been cut on the bias.
■Variations will occur due to the handmade nature of the tie.
Hand-sewn...An absolute prerequisite to ensure quality
Handmade ties allow movement and are not rigid like machine made ties. Ties are machine made for the purpose of mass production, and this means that each tie will not have the same attention or care that goes into a hand sewn tie. At Kamakura Shirts, we do not mass produce as we wish to ensure that each stitch is placed to perfection. Luxury handmade ties will have a slip stitch, which is a long looped thread just visible at the seam. This allows the tie to naturally fall back into shape when twisted or wrinkled. The loose stitch means that the tie can move along the thread instead of being held in its shape rigidly by a stitch that is machine sewn. By allowing movement, the tie will not tear even when tightly wound and knotted.
The finest fabrics, carefully selected from around the world
The technique to dye silk reached the Roman Empire in the 6th century. Attributable to this, Europe advanced in creating the finest silk dyes. Silk is created by weaving natural protein fibres produced by silkworms. These fibres have a unique modified cross-section that cannot be replicated by synthetic fibres. Fabrics created by densely weaving such natural fibres together have an elegant sheen and certain softness due to this unique cross-section. Furthermore, they can express delicate colours and subtle changes in shading that manmade fibres cannot. Europe prospered together with the silk industry and as a result the necktie market is still largely supported by European designs.