The “impossible” 400 thread is finally here.
Delicate, ultrafine 400 count thread is hard to come by.
In an age of price wars and knock-off products,
we are committed to making breakthroughs.
In our pursuit of the very best, we found everything we needed in Japan.
We rediscovered traditional techniques that were on the verge of being lost forever.
Spinning, weaving, processing, sewing.
Japanese factories and Kamakura Shirts have joined forces to create an all-Japanese product.
To create this fine 400 count thread,
we needed extraordinary technologies and materials.
Unitika’s special spinning technology is what made it possible.
The fabric is made with four twisted threads of 400 count yarn,
woven little by little, ensuring the thread does not bend or sag.
Cotton is produced in 90 countries around the world. Only 8% can be called luxury cotton. Suvin Gold is the name given to the highest quality cotton from India.
It is even rarer, at just 0.003% of the gross cotton production.
The cotton used for our Suvin Gold shirts are extra-long staple* suvin, carefully nurtured and hand-graded in South India. Since the cotton is handpicked, it reaches the Japanese cotton mill soft and undamaged. The title “Gold” is only given to the first and second picking. Feel the radiance and touch that this illusory cotton promises. It is something we’ve been searching for years.
We invite you to enjoy the radiance and softness of this long-sought-after cotton.
*Extra-long staple cotton ⇒ Cotton where fibers have a staple length of 3.5 cm or more. The longer the staple, the higher the grade of the cotton.
For the buttons we used mother-of-pearl, the material found inside pearl oysters. The natural shell creates a unique shine for each and every button, adding a little luxury to your everyday shirt.
The Manhattan Model was created with the assistance of Norimitsu Shibayama, Chairman of the Japan Modelist Association. Collar, body, sleeve – every detail is lavished with attention.
The "Traditional" Manhattan Classic Fit
To create a traditional feel, the curve of the collar pattern has been reduced. The new pattern employs a lowered neckline to create a relaxed look when the collar is opened.
Compared to the slim fit, the sleeves and body have been kept spacious. By preserving the size of the back panel, together with bringing the side seams forward, we have incorporated the essential ideas of traditional British and American tailoring.
The special characteristic of the Manhattan Model is its sleeves that naturally point forward. The curve of the sleeve has been tailored to match that of the jacket, which in turn means the cuff of the shirt sleeve and the jacket are parallel.
To preserve a traditional look, the shirt has a wider front and sleeve plackets, and also features a wider stitch width in comparison to the Slim Fits. The sleeve plackets employ double stitches to keep this taste. Inspired by the Ivy League style, only the yoke has been narrowed.
The pocket has been placed slightly slanted on the shirt so that it will appear straight when worn. As an added Ivy Look detail, the stitch on the pocket is straight. (*Button-down shirts only.)
The Essential Elements
The finest quality materials
It is often said that the best chefs are relentlessly demanding about their ingredients. It is the same with master shirt makers. We pay meticulous attention when selecting the yarns that make up our fine cloths, just as if they were the freshest catch of the day. Most of the yarns selected for our fabrics have a minimum 80 cotton yarn count (2-ply), ensuring the most exquisite feel. We also frequently use 100 and 120 yarn count cotton, and have launched a series of sumptuous fabrics using an unprecedented 300 yarn count cotton.
The superior single needle
Our shirts are finished with single needle stitching, which is regarded as the sign of the finest quality shirts. Although it takes twice the time to sew compared to other common stitches, by rolling the edges inside the seams, the finished product has a smooth touch to the skin.
Buttons and intricate interlining
Shell buttons are the hallmark of luxury shirts. Buttons carved from natural shells each have a unique sheen, adding an understated but unmistakable sense of refinement. The selection of interlining needs to be carefully considered to achieve the ideal structured yet organically flowing form. We only use non-fusible interlining, in order to achieve a natural-looking soft touch to the collars and cuffs.
Precise patterns, beautifully cut
To achieve the best fit and hang, a skillfully prepared pattern is essential. In our search for the ultimate fit, we create an ideal balance between the dynamic of the fabric and the seamster's individual technique, redrawing and adjusting the patterns to perfection. It is through the precision of our patterns that we are able to achieve the subtle profile and flattering silhouette of our shirts. Beautifully cut panels are then elaborately stitched together by seamsters of the highest skill and dexterity.