Why New York?

In the early 1990s, the catalyst for founder Yoshio Sadasue's decision to start a business came from a simple remark: "Is there no one who can carry on my wish to make Japanese men fashionable?" This comment was made by the late Kensuke Ishizu, the founder of VAN Jacket, who introduced American Ivy Style to Japan in the 1960s and 70s and became a cultural phenomenon. Yoshio and his wife, Tamiko, had previously worked at VAN Jacket. Although VAN Jacket effectively went bankrupt in 1978, Yoshio immediately responded to his mentor Ishizu, saying, "Then I will start a shirt business." At that time, he was already 53 years old, but he had long been nurturing a business idea in secret. It was a specialty store for high-quality shirts offered at reasonable prices, designed to overturn the existing business model.

Shirts are an essential item for men's fashion. Yoshio was confident that by drastically cutting intermediate costs and selling the highest quality shirts made in Japan at acceptable prices, he would surely win over discerning customers. Following the teachings of his father, Keiichi Sadasue, who ran a clothing store, Yoshio vowed to uphold the true path of commerce as a merchant: "A merchant can only receive their share when customers are happy. One must work hard for the sake of others to earn a living."

On November 7, 1993, the couple quietly opened a small specialty shirt store on the second floor of a convenience store in Kamakura, a historic samurai city surrounded by beautiful mountains and the sea. Their corporate philosophy was to "support business professionals around the world with our shirts." They dreamed of one day establishing a shirt brand recognized globally, particularly in New York, the home of Ivy Style and the sacred ground of business menswear, which Yoshio had admired since his time at VAN Jacket.

For a shirt to be recognized worldwide, it had to make a mark in New York, a challenge akin to climbing Everest. They began investigating store locations in May 2008. Although the rental costs on Madison Avenue were unimaginably high, the financial crisis caused by the Lehman Brothers collapse in September that year opened up some vacancies. In 2012, they finally encountered an ideal property. However, the building owner rejected them, saying, "A Japanese person opening a shirt store in New York? That’s like an American opening a sushi restaurant in Ginza."

Rescuing them from this predicament was Graham Marsh, a British expert on Ivy Style and author of "The IVY LOOK," who was well-acquainted with the Japanese Ivy scene. Yoshio wrote a letter expressing his passion for Ivy, along with a button-down shirt, and sent it to Marsh in the UK. Impressed by the quality of the shirt and the vision behind Kamakura Shirts, Marsh wrote a recommendation letter to the building owner. This proved instrumental in moving their negotiations forward.

In the fall of 2012, they were able to open the store, and construction began in July. The surrounding signboards during the renovation featured Graham Marsh's recommendation message, along with the cover of The IVY LOOK and detailed pages about Japanese Ivy and VAN Jacket (specifically page 180, "EAST MEETS WEST: East beats West"). This page stated, "Japanese enthusiasts have elevated the Ivy League look to new levels." It was crucial to convey their deep research and respect for Ivy in order to be recognized in the Ivy stronghold of New York.

After approximately three months of construction, "Kamakura Shirts" finally opened at 400 Madison Avenue on October 30, 2012. For the grand opening reception, Graham Marsh traveled from the UK to celebrate with them.

On the morning of October 30, 2012, Yoshio and Tamiko stand in front of the store on opening day.

At this time, although it was their first meeting, Marsh asked Yoshio during his stay in New York, "Could you create my ideal button-down shirt?" Marsh passionately described the details he envisioned, and they found common ground in the idea of reviving authentic Ivy wear from the 1960s. Yoshio promised to make it happen and returned to Japan.

From this encounter, the collaboration project "VINTAGE IVY" with Marsh launched in 2013. This collection has since become a lasting favorite.

The first edition of "VINTAGE IVY," released in August 2013. It features classic Ivy details, including a six-button front placket, a soft-rolling collar, a button on the back of the collar, box pleats, and a locker loop.

The high-quality shirts made in Japan gained a reputation in New York as well, and similar to Japan, word-of-mouth support from local customers began to grow. Shortly after opening, they were featured by a local blogger, which quickly generated buzz online. Subsequently, they were frequently highlighted in prestigious magazines like Smithsonian and GQ. In 2019, GQ's U.S. web edition featured "Kamakura Shirts" at the top of their special article "The Best White Dress Shirts."

As the business flourished, the lives of the founding couple underwent dramatic changes. In August 2018, Tamiko, Yoshio’s wife and business partner, fell seriously ill, leading Yoshio to juggle work and caregiving responsibilities. For about a year and a half, he dedicated himself to her care, but eventually, he too began to suffer health issues and was forced to be hospitalized. At 79, Yoshio decided to transfer his authority to his eldest daughter, Nanako Sadasue, who had worked alongside him for over 20 years. In February 2020, he entrusted her with the entire management of the business.

However, shortly after taking over, Nanako faced the unprecedented challenges posed by the COVID-19 pandemic, encountering a crisis that no one had anticipated since the company’s founding.

In the midst of the pandemic, Nanako faced a difficult decision: to withdraw from New York. With the store unable to operate and similar challenges persisting in Japan (with 25 locations), this was an unavoidable choice to protect the company. The New York store, which had been Yoshio's long-cherished dream and where Nanako had taken a lead in the opening preparations, closed at the end of 2020. However, Nanako vowed to return to New York one day. From the moment of closure, reopening in New York became the company's goal.

In September 2024, supported by customers they had built relationships with since 2012, Kamakura Shirts made a triumphant return to New York after nearly four years. To provide a more personalized service suited to the current era, they opened a fully reservation-based order salon within The Graybar Building, directly connected to Grand Central Station.

Kamakura Shirts continues to embody the DNA of VAN Jacket. Since its founding, New York has always been a dream stage and a special place for Yoshio and the company. From this city, they aim to reach the pinnacle of a globally recognized shirt brand. The relentless pursuit of supporting business professionals around the world with their shirts continues.