A row of neatly hung dress shirts in various colors.

WHAT’S GOLDEN90s?

Kamakura Shirts has revived and reimagined its archival shirts from the 1990s, updating them to suit the modern style.
The fabrics, originally woven in Nishiwaki City, Hyogo — home of the renowned Banshu weaving tradition — have been refined for today, resulting in a truly “Made in Japan” dress shirt that represents the culmination of our craftsmanship.

The collection comes in two variations: solid and striped.
Both feature the distinctive color tones and patterns characteristic of the 1990s, while the updated collar shapes and modern fit make them effortless to wear across generations and styles.

GOLDEN 90s is a collection born from the pursuit of timeless pieces — designs that transcend both era and generation.

About GIZA96

GIZA96 is a type of "Egyptian cotton," which is renowned as one of the world's top three cotton varieties. Among the various Giza cotton varieties assigned numbers based on their development sequence, GIZA96 is the newest and belongs to the category of extra-long staple cotton. Due to its cotton fibers containing a higher amount of oil, GIZA96 cotton boasts a deep luster and a smooth, luxurious texture. The fabric woven from GIZA96 cotton is soft to the touch yet exhibits a subtle firmness, providing an exceptional wearing experience that makes you feel as if your posture straightens when you put it on. Since dress shirts are the closest garments to your skin, choosing a high-quality material like GIZA96 is crucial to ensure both comfort and elegance.

About the Fabric

The fabric used in these high-end dress shirts can be described as the epitome of 100s two-ply poplin. It was woven with a thread count of 144 warp threads and 76 weft threads, a traditional golden ratio of weaving.

This specific thread count was chosen to strike the perfect balance for a dress shirt in terms of texture and feel. Going beyond this thread count would make the fabric too thick, while having fewer threads would result in a fabric that is overly delicate. The chosen thread count embodies the ideal texture and touch for a dress shirt, ensuring a comfortable and refined wearing experience.

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ABOUT BANSHU

In Nishiwaki City and the Taka District of Hyogo Prefecture, blessed with abundant forests and water resources, the tradition of weaving textiles has thrived for approximately 200 years, dating back to the middle of the Edo period. In the Meiji era, the region was referred to as "Harima," and its fabric was known as "Banshu-ori." The most distinctive feature of Banshu-ori is the technique known as "senshoku" or "pre-dyeing." In contrast to the common practice of dyeing the fabric after it is woven, senshoku involves dyeing the threads before weaving the fabric. While this method requires more time and cost, it results in delicate color patterns and a captivating depth of expression. During the Showa period, due to its exceptional quality, Banshu-ori received orders from renowned brands worldwide, establishing the name of Banshu-ori on the global stage. The dress shirts presented here are a testament to the exceptional products born from Nishiwaki, Japan, a place renowned worldwide for its quality and craftsmanship.

About Dyeing

 

The most crucial element in the dyeing process is "water." The Kakogawa River, which flows through Nishiwaki City, boasts Japan's highest water quality management, with minimal impurities. This enables it to bring out the exquisite hues of dyes to the fullest extent. Furthermore, Japan's water quality, characterized by being extremely soft compared to the predominant hard water in many overseas regions, makes it easier for dyes to adhere to the fabric. The abundance of water, a fundamental aspect of the dyeing process, is one of the reasons why Banshu-ori has thrived in this region.

About Kuwamura Textile

 

Kuwamura Textile Co., Ltd., a fabric manufacturer based in Taka District, Hyogo Prefecture, was founded in 1928. They specialize in pre-dyed woven fabrics and are a prominent player in the world of Banshu-ori.

Their quality is renowned not only within Japan but also internationally. They have supplied fabrics to countries around the world, including the birthplace of BD shirts, the United States, and the home of dresswear, the United Kingdom. The 90s Archive Project they've undertaken is a testament to the culmination of Kuwamura Textile's experience and expertise, which has played a significant role in supporting the history of Banshu-ori.